Many years ago, I paid a visit to the second smallest of the Canary Islands, La Gomera. I was overwhelmed by the lush laurel forests, the rugged shores, the incredible versatility of landscapes and ecosystems that develop on a small island that reaches up to almost 1500m above sea level. I always dreamed to return, but it never happened. So when the idea came up to turn towards the next bigger one, La Palma, it didn’t take long to decide and before long, the trip was booked and we were ready to go.
I thought it’s not possible to surpass La Gomera, but La Palma sets the bar even higher indeed. Maybe it’s because the volcanoes are much younger (remember the catastrophic eruption of Tajogaite in 2021), or the island’s highest peak is a whopping 1000m higher than La Gomera’s Alto de Garajonay and the ravines deeper. It’s an island I could spend weeks and months hiking, exploring remote and lonely headlands, deep and old forests or barren volcanic planes. Of course, I’d love to come back, and hopefully it doesn’t take as many years as it took since La Gomera.
At Llanos del Jable viewing point, Tajogaite is only a volcanic bomb trajectory away. The landscape, in direction towards Caldera de Taburiente, is still strongly impacted by the events in 2021.
The ever present clouds and changing evening light create magical vibes around the tough Canary pines that endure the harsh conditions of a soil made up of volcanic ash.
The Canary Pine is endemic to the Canary Islands and is able to withstand the recurring forest fires on the island.
Roque de los Muchachos is the highest peak of La Palma at 2426 meters above sea level. It’s easy to reach by road, as there are several observatories that make use of the exceptionally dark nights and clear skies. From up there, it’s possible to see the entire island – if it’s not cloudy as usual.
It’s an astronomer’s dream!
On the other side, within the deep ravines, called barrancos, shadows rule and the vegetation is lush like in a jungle.